[U]Contracting BB :[/U]
Evening star, morning doji star, engulfing long and short, dark cloud cover, piercing pattern.
That just about does it.
It always puzzles me about these people who need cards to identify these patterns.
There are so few of them listed here that you can learn them in a few minutes.
About the three greens and crows , i have read the description on the page you linked as "consecutively higher closes " for soldiers , so what do the candle size and wick size matter ? They dont all have to be bigger than the next i believe , just closeing higher than the last , but how do the other factors effect the pattern ?
Can i assume that any three greens that close higher than the rest are a quality pattern ? I would assume that if the next candle was larger than the previous then the pattern would be stronger , rather than getting smaller as they rise … Maybe i answered my own question there , but thought id ask .
It always puzzles me about these people who need cards to identify these patterns.
There are so few of them listed here that you can learn them in a few minutes.
I don’t think it’s that the patterns are so difficult per se - its that newbs don’t know how literally/precisely to interpret the patterns (definitely a problem I’m having) and the explanations of the patterns usually don’t address which details of the pattern have to be precise and which can be more liberally interpreted.
I have similar questions to Kentsboots about patterns - and on the websites and explanations I’ve seen so far there is usually only one picture of the pattern - making it seem like it has to be [U]exactly[/U] as shown or it doesn’t qualify as a pattern or at least not a quality one.
The questions I always have with any pattern are pretty much the same and rarely answered. This is why I asked earlier, Tymen, if you were going to show examples of trades with the other patterns you use, because maybe you don’t realize it, but you often answer these questions in your explanations.
For example with the 3 green soldiers the following are the questions that come to mind for me. (I’m not expecting answers to these questions, this just shows how in some people’s minds - ME and obviously Kentsboots - its not quite as simple as you might think.)
Maybe I’m (we’re) making it much more difficult than it should be. :o
E.G. re 3 Green Soldiers
[ul]
[li]If the candles overlap, does it matter by how much?
[/li][li]Does candle size matter since the pictures usually show larger candles or are ANY 3 gr candles in a row with consecutively higher closes considered 3 GR S’s?
[/li][li]Do the candles have to be similar in size to each other?
[/li][li]Can there be gaps in the candles?
[/li][li]Do wick sizes matter? If so, how?
[/li][li]What if the wick is unusually long in one direction as in a hammer/hanging man/shooting star - does this then have to be separated out or can it be considered part of a 3 Gr S’s (or 3 R R’s) pattern?
[/li][li]If a hammer/hanging man/shooting star CAN be considered part of a pattern and IS the right colour to be part of a 3 Gr S’s (or 3 R R’s) but on its own would signal a reversal, is the 3 Gr S’s (3 R R’s) pattern still valid or do you leave it alone? (maybe this never happens, but in theory…)
[/li][/ul]
And, I probably have a list equally as long for each pattern - hence the difficulty!
Any and all advice in this regard is most welcome!
I believe that you may be overthinking it. Once you get a feel for what a quality pattern is, you WILL recognize them. Just like anything else, it just takes practice. There is no substitute.
One good way to practice pattern identification is to go back on the historical data of your charts and look for them, and see how often they affect direction.
Firstly, you must see if the pattern is actually there - it either is or is not.
Most of these subtleties you describe are irrelevant.
I can assure you that the important fine points that influence the trade are given in the following hyperlink, which I have given many times.
I recommend that you memorize the fine points in the descriptions given in this website.
I’ll be sorry to see you go for the winter, but I realize you probably have alot of things going on. Looking forward to your new presentation next year.
I haven’t been able to really focus on trading for almost a month now, due to all kinds of things, but mostly work and alot of travel (jobs are expensive). This week should be the end of all that, so I should be going again soon. Still been check babypips though, keeps me in touch.
[B]Here is now my second Advanced level example trade :[/B]
It is a trade of USD/JPY on a 25 minute chart.
The pattern is a [U]Dark Cloud Cover [/U]- I have not shown one of these yet on this forum, so here we are now.
Here we see the main chart with the dark cloud cover highlighted.
The Bollinger bands whilst appearing to be expanding, are actually contracting.
This I know because I have a range of charts 25, 30 35 min…1 hour.
By looking at the longer time frame charts, the BB are clearly turning inwards.
The dark cloud is a shorting pattern, therefore, traded with a contracting BB.
Now firstly, we must set the PCI, and this is set 3 pips plus spread above the highest candle point - 99.53
You cannot see it on the chart - the scale is too large. The last figure on the scale is 99.40
None of the following charts will show it - but believe me, it is there.
Simply by waiting, another red candle arrives and we exit at the lowest point I can as shown on the chart.
Because we had entered only [U]1 amount[/U], we cannot lose.
If the price goes up - we enter the [U]2nd amount[/U].
If the price goes down - we exit this first amount.
This is a powerful operation in the strategy of this Advanced level.
But I am not really able to do it properly because I am tied down with the screen printing.
As you see, I exited the [U]first amount[/U].
Normally, [U]you would have 2 amounts[/U] of pips now.
But I have only 1 amount since I did not get to do the second entry.
So now we have Entry minus Exit.
That is, 99.43 - 99.27 = 16 pips. That is just for me.